Bleed the animal by cutting its throat.
If possible, clean the carcass near a stream.
Place the carcass belly up and split the hide from throat to tail, cutting around all sexual organs (Figure 8-25).
Remove the musk glands at points A and B to avoid tainting the meat.
For smaller mammals, cut the hide around the body and insert two fingers under the hide on both sides of the cut and pull both pieces off (Figure 8-26).
Note: When cutting the hide, insert the knife blade under the skin and turn the blade up so that only the hide gets cut.
This will also prevent cutting hair and getting it on the meat.
Remove the entrails from smaller game by splitting the body open and pulling them out with the fingers.
Do not forget the chest cavity.
For larger game, cut the gullet away from the diaphragm.
Roll the entrails out of the body.
Cut around the anus, then reach into the lower abdominal cavity, grasp the lower intestine, and pull to remove.
Remove the urine bladder by pinching it off and cutting it below the fingers.
If you spill urine on the meat, wash it to avoid tainting the meat.
Save the heart and liver.
Cut these open and inspect for signs of worms or other parasites.
Also inspect the liver’s color; it could indicate a diseased animal.
The liver’s surface should be smooth and wet and its color deep red or purple.
If the liver appears diseased, discard it.
However, a diseased liver does not indicate you cannot eat the muscle tissue.
Cut along each leg from above the foot to the previously made body cut.
Remove the hide by pulling it away from the carcass, cutting the connective tissue where necessary.
Cut off the head and feet.
Cut larger game into manageable pieces.
First, slice the muscle tissue connecting the front legs to the body.
There are no bones or joints connecting the front legs to the body on four-legged animals.
Cut the hindquarters off where they join the body.
You must cut around a large bone at the top of the leg and cut to the ball and socket hip joint.
Cut the ligaments around the joint and bend it back to separate it.
Remove the large muscles (the tenderloin) that lie on either side of the spine.
Separate the ribs from the backbone.
There is less work and less wear on your knife if you break the ribs first, then cut through the breaks.
Cook large meat pieces over a spit or boil them.
You can stew or boil smaller pieces, particularly those that remain attached to bone after the initial butchering, as soup or broth.
You can cook body organs such as the heart, liver, pancreas, spleen, and kidneys using the same methods as for muscle meat.
You can also cook and eat the brain. Cut the tongue out, skin it, boil it until tender, and eat it.
To skin a snake, first cut off its head and bury it.
Then cut the skin down the body 15 to 20 centimeters
Peel the skin back, then grasp the skin in one hand and the body in the other and pull apart.
On large, bulky snakes it may be necessary to slit the belly skin.
Cook snakes in the same manner as small game.
Remove the entrails and discard. Cut the snake into small sections and boil or roast it.
After killing the bird, remove its feathers by either plucking or skinning.
Remember, skinning removes some of the food value.
Open up the body cavity and remove its entrails, saving the craw (in seed-eating birds), heart, and liver.
Cut off the feet. Cook by boiling or roasting over a spit.
Before cooking scavenger birds, boil them at least 20 minutes to kill parasites.
I first read the SAS Survival Handbook back when I was 12 (my mother had a copy which she gave to me) and I’ve used it as one of my main survival reference guides ever since.
I recently purchased the new and updated edition and I thought I’d write up a review for the blog.
John Wiseman is a former SAS survival instructor who served for the regiment for 26 years so you can certainly rest assured that you are receiving the best available information.
He is widely respected in the survival world and is one of the grand-daddys of survival!
The techniques he describes in this book are simple, functional, practical and extremely clever.
The information contained in this book is aimed at surviving in the some most extreme conditions.
The range of topics he covers is mine blowing and practically all possible survival scenarios are covered.
Yeah, it is unlikely that any of us with be faced with some of the scenarios in the book but you know, it can be handy to know not to eat a polar bear’s liver because the amount of vitamin A contained inside it makes it toxic.
How can that be handy?? Trust me, if you get your ass stranded at the North Pole you’ll be glad to know that type of stuff!!!
Some of the other key information includes:
- Beautiful, accurate pictures of edible and poisonous plants
- How-to advice on setting up temporary camps and shelter building
- Basic first aid and medical care
- How to survive a nuclear attack, war conditions, fire/ice/extreme weather conditions
- A virtually complete instruction on how to set up different traps to catch your food,
To put it simply, there is an amazing amount of information in this book. So much so that it is simply too numerous to list in full.
All in all, the SAS Survival Handbook is one of the most easy to read yet comprehensive survival guides available and it is packed with so much info that it will it certainly help you prepare for any survival situation you may face.
I am a firm believer in prepping for any event.
Such events include surviving an apocalyptic uprising of zombie rabbits.
Oh yeah, your laughing now but you won’t be when Buggs Goddam Bunny rises from the grave to eat your brains (and your stockpile of freeze dried carrots!!)
That’s why I believe in having lots of .22LR ammo on hand to deal with these furry little f%*kers when they arrive.
I also happen to think the .22LR is one hell of a kick-ass survival caliber.
1. It’s Cheap
Who doesn’t like something cheap and when that something is ammo then it’s twice as awesome.
Even the top quality .22LR ammo is extremely cheap when compared to the cost of the same number of cartridges in a larger caliber such as .223
.22LR is dirt cheap and that is one of the reasons we frugal survivalists love it.
2. It’s Readily Available
Being practically the most popular small caliber known to mankind the .22LR is never in short supply when you swing by your local sports store.
3. You Can Buy It In Bulk Without Breaking the Bank or Running Out of Space in the Closet
.22LR is extremely easy to stock up on due to it’s low cost and the fact that because it is small you can fit thousands of rounds into one .50cal ammo tin for water-proof storage.
Trust me, when the zombie rabbits start to rise your going to be glad you have a can of .22 at your side.
4. It’s Pack A Nice Punches Considering It’s Size
It may be small but I think it’s safe to say that no one in there right mind would want to be shot with one.
I’ve seen the .22LR take down a variety of animals ranging from rats to full grown cattle (with a well placed shot obviously).
5. It’s Fun to Shoot
Yep, whether your blasting zombie bunnies or shooting old Baked Bean cans, you can’t beat the .22LR for it’s enjoyability factor.
When I was down at the gun shop the other week I picked up some ammo for my SKS.
I usually use Barnaul but since it was out of stock I decided to get some Tula 7.62×39 instead.
I have to say that it is some of the best “cheap” Russian ammo I’ve ever bought for the SKS!!
The highlights of Tula 7.62×39 Ammo:
. It’s as accurate as I am – I can easily hit 3 inches groups at 150 yards.
. It’s cheap!
. Not as dirty as some other Russian brands
. Steel cases don’t cause jam issues like brass cases can
. Very reliable – Not a single jam or misfire out of the 200 odd rounds I fired when I went out mountain goat hunting
All in all I find Tula 7.62×39 to be an excellent ammunition and it’s great for wild boar or goat hunting.
I woke up to snow today so I thought I’d take advantage of it and practice some winter survival skills.
So here’s my guide to lighting a fire in the snow.
Clear an area in a snow (I used my Kukri).
Place your fine tinder (dryer lint in this case!) inside your rough tinder (dried grass) and light the former.
Bundle up the rough tinder over the ignited fine tinder and then place fine pieces of kindling on top.
As your fire begins to take off place larger pieces of wood so it has plenty of fuel and can build up a good amount of embers.
Sit back and enjoy the warmth!!!!)
Once you are done with your fire simply throw snow on top of the fire to put it out.
It arrived a couple of days later and I took it out on an overnight camp with me.
My verdict after testing it out:
I would never consider taking any other knife(except maybe my Kukri) with me into the wilderness or during a survival situation.
Ka-Bars are well-known for being indestructible pieces of metal that are built like tanks.
I can honestly say that this is true!!
I used mine as a hammer, axe/hatchet, wood splitter and general purpose hacking knife.
With it’s 7 inch blade I kept it beside my sleeping bag in case a possum attacked and I couldn’tgrab my Rossi 92 fast enough!
After all, the knife has used by the US Marine Corp proof for over 50 years so it has to be good for defending yourself!
Note: I highly recommend getting one with a Kydex Sheath as the leather ones tend to warp if they get to wet.
Another issue with the leather sheaths is that they can retain moisture which can damage/rust the blade.
Anyway here’s my basic rundown:
. The blade stays nice and sharp, and it hacks through branches like butter.
. The handle is grooved making it nearly impossible for your hand to slip, and if your hand does slip (not likely) there’s a guard on both sides to keep your hand from the blade.
. This knife can handle practically anything you throw at it(or throw it at anything!).
. If buy the version that comes with a Kydex Sheath then the knife locks into it even before you secure the cross strap at the top. No risk of it falling out and slicing you.
. It’s been used by the US Marine Corp for over 50 years and is also the standard issue knife for the Israeli Commandos, and I don’t think these guys would be using sub standard equipment.
. The leather sheath can cause some issues if it gets too wet but this can easily be remedied by picking up an aftermarket Kydex/Plastic Sheath