Another of my recent acquisitions is a little folding Coleman Shovel and Pick.
I keep in my truck and it’s small overall size and ability to be easy assembled and disassembled means that it takes up practacilly no room whatsoever.
It’s small size also makes it suitable for most survival situations and you could easily throw one in your Bug Out Bag without having to worry about it taking up a large amount of room or weighing you down.
•Small carrying pouch with belt loop included
•Can be used as a pick, shovel
•Positive locking collar which hold the blade firmly in configuration
•Open length 58 cm (23″) , folded length 25 cm (10″)
•Breaks down easily to a 10″-long compact kit
All and all I think the Coleman Camping Shovel/Pick is of very good quality.
I find the compact belt size package to be quite useful especilly if you want to strap it to your Bug Out Bag, belt, webbing, etc.
If you want a small camping/hiking/Bug Out Bag shovel then this is a great package, but it you are looking for something to dig trenches with then look elsewhere.
It’s always a good idea to know how to make fire with flint and steel or by rubbing sticks together but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t pack a lighter for when you need a quick flame with minimal fuss.
The Windmill Delta Stormproof Lighter lets you make a quick fire without having to burn those precious calories you need to survive if TSHTF.
Designed to light in winds as high as 80 miles per hour, this survival lighter will also work in temperatures down to 40 degrees below zero F!!
The Delta Storm proof lighter utilizes a platinum catalyzer coil to ignite butane fuel via piezo-electric ignition. This allows it to make a flame even when damp(very handy in a survival situation).
The manufacturer claims the lighter will perform thirty thousand ignitions. With a full tank butane (one gram) , you can expect about 300 three to five second ignitions, easily enough for several week long expeditions.
The Delta Shockproof Series has a large fuel window that makes it easy to check on fuel levels.
Two other handy features are it’s adjustable gas flow which allows for usage at varying elevations and O-ring seals that keep water out when the cap is closed.
All in all I find it too be a very robust, strong and powerful little lighter than will definately be your best friend in a survival situation.
I haven’t gotten a chance to run a feild test with this lighter yet due to a Fire Ban currently being in effect in my area but as soon I can I will conduct one and post it on the site.
There are many survival scenarios that may lead to you having to deal with somebody who is in shock or in danger of going into shock due to injury.
The best bet is to always anticipate shock in all injured persons.
Treat all injured persons as follows, regardless of what symptoms appear:
· If the victim is conscious, place him on a level surface with the lower extremities elevated 15 to 20 centimeters.
· If the victim is unconscious, place him on his side or abdomen with his head turned to one side to prevent choking on vomit, blood, or other fluids.
· If you are unsure of the best position, place the victim perfectly flat. Once the victim is in a shock position, do not move him.
· Maintain body heat by insulating the victim from the surroundings and, in some instances, applying external heat.
· If wet, remove all the victim’s wet clothing as soon as possible and replace with dry clothing.
· Improvise a shelter to insulate the victim from the weather.
· Use warm liquids or foods, a prewarmed sleeping bag, another person, warmed water in canteens, hot rocks wrapped in clothing, or fires on either side of the victim to provide external warmth.
· If the victim is conscious, slowly administer small doses of a warm salt or sugar solution, if available.
· If the victim is unconscious or has abdominal wounds, do not give fluids by mouth.
· Have the victim rest for at least 24 hours.
· If you are a lone survivor, lie in a depression in the ground, behind a tree, or any other place out of the weather, with your head lower than your feet.
· If you are with a buddy, reassess your patient constantly.
So the crap has hit the fan and you have enough food and supplies to last for a while. Good for you.
After sitting down to another tasty feast of canned chilli beans you get up and walk to the bathroom to brush your teeth before you go hit the sack.
You make it to the bathroom and open the cabinet to find (much to your horror!) that your toothbrush has worn out.
Then it hits you like a ton of bricks “Holy crap!! I forgot to buy extra toothbrushes!!!!!”
Yes I know there are alternatives to toothbrushes but hey, I’d prefer a toothbrush for post-apocalyptic dental care instead of a twig.
So if you want to avoid getting splinters in your gums if the crap goes down, pack a good supply of toothbrushes away for a rainy day (or Nuclear Winter).
2. Toilet Paper
So the chilli beans are working their way through your system and you find yourself running for the crapper at 3am.
Flashlight in hand you burst through the door and plant your ass firmly on the throne.
You go about your business and then reach for some good ol’ Double Ply only to find the roll empty!!
After a while you manage to duck walk to your supply closet to confirm your worst fears “Your out of Crapper papper!!”
TP takes up more room that a few extra toothbrushes but believe me, if you put a good supply away then you won’t regret it!!
You need clean rear-end while you fight off the hordes of Zombies!!
No point having high power flashlights, walkie talkies, etc if you run of batteries to power them in the first week.
You can buy batteries in bulk and they are definately worth their weight in gold during a crisis.
For long term storage you can seal them in an airtight bag and chuck em at the back of your fridge.
It arrived a couple of days later and I took it out on an overnight camp with me.
My verdict after testing it out:
I would never consider taking any other knife(except maybe my Kukri) with me into the wilderness or during a survival situation.
Ka-Bars are well-known for being indestructible pieces of metal that are built like tanks.
I can honestly say that this is true!!
I used mine as a hammer, axe/hatchet, wood splitter and general purpose hacking knife.
With it’s 7 inch blade I kept it beside my sleeping bag in case a possum attacked and I couldn’tgrab my Rossi 92 fast enough!
After all, the knife has used by the US Marine Corp proof for over 50 years so it has to be good for defending yourself!
Note: I highly recommend getting one with a Kydex Sheath as the leather ones tend to warp if they get to wet.
Another issue with the leather sheaths is that they can retain moisture which can damage/rust the blade.
Anyway here’s my basic rundown:
. The blade stays nice and sharp, and it hacks through branches like butter.
. The handle is grooved making it nearly impossible for your hand to slip, and if your hand does slip (not likely) there’s a guard on both sides to keep your hand from the blade.
. This knife can handle practically anything you throw at it(or throw it at anything!).
. If buy the version that comes with a Kydex Sheath then the knife locks into it even before you secure the cross strap at the top. No risk of it falling out and slicing you.
. It’s been used by the US Marine Corp for over 50 years and is also the standard issue knife for the Israeli Commandos, and I don’t think these guys would be using sub standard equipment.
. The leather sheath can cause some issues if it gets too wet but this can easily be remedied by picking up an aftermarket Kydex/Plastic Sheath
I am one of the many survivalists that believes that stockpiling gold and silver is generally a waste of time.
Don’t get me wrong, if you live in Fort Knox and have a lifetimes supply of food and water then by all means, stock up on bullion.
But if you are like me (and 99% of all survivalists) then you aren’t rich, meaning it is best to spend that money on freeze dried food, bottled water, cartons of toilet paper and generally anything that can actually help you!!!
The main problem I have with gold and silver is the simple fact that you can’t eat it, drink it, shoot it or use it as a pillow.
Since it can’t be used for any of the above mentioned purposes, I consider it about as useful as a tent made out of paper towels!
So here’s my three tops reasons why you shouldn’t stockpile gold and silver.
1. Long Term Use
If you stop and look at human history you will see that for thousands of year man-kind has bartered goods and services.
Hell, gold and silver were only used as currency once civilization was well established.
In the aftermath of any situation the most valuable commodities are going to be food, water, clothing, fuel and other things that human beings need for their immediate survival.
It’s better having some extra canned beef stew to barter with instead of a bunch of gold coins.
2. It’s all about Priorities
Absolutely they are correct but the question is how long?? A year? Two years?? A decade?? Half a century???
Like I have said, no point having no food or water but a trunk full of metal!
Common sense says you should prepare for what you will need first.
3. Cash Is Still King
That’s right!!!! The rest of the world still takes cash.
When the crap hits the fan dental hygiene will be extremely important!
Think I’m kidding? The last thing you need is your teeth rotting out of your skull while you are trying to wait out the end of the world.
I mean really, you’re going to have enough problems as it is!
So to help fight those pesky post-apocalytic cavities here’s a couple of basic tooth paste recipes.
2 tablespoons coconut oil
3 tablespoons baking soda
1/2 small packet of stevia powder
20-25 drops of peppermint oil*
1. Mix all ingredients together in a small bowl, using a fork.
*Add about half of the amount of peppermint oil to start, and test the toothpaste to see how much you want/like.
1/4 cup white cosmetic clay
1/4 cup vegetable glycerin
20 drops tincture of myrrh
4 drops orange essential oil
4 drops clove essential oil
1. Put all ingredients in a bowl, and whisk them thoroughly until smooth.
2. Fill a plastic toothpaste tube ( available at camping-equipment stores) with the paste. Fold the end of the tube over several times until it is firmly sealed, or fill a jar with the paste.
3. Store in a cool, dry place away from bright light.
Use within 6 months.
Because you just never know when disaster could strike, I like to have several Bug Out Bags scatter around the house and in the vehicles.
One of my “mini” BOBs is actually a British Army Chest Rig filled with various basic survival supplies.
Now ideally I will be able to have more gear with me but this is basically my “better than a kick in the head” bag!
My “Better Than A Kick In The Head” BOB contains:
. Pack of 450 matches
. 8 AA batteries
. Small Transistor Radio (AA powered)
. Water purifying tablets
. SOG Fasthawk
. Muela Scorpion Sheath Knige
. Electrical Tape
. Hand Cranked LED Flashlight
. AA Powered LED Lenser P7 Flashlight
. Snaplock bag full of tea lights
. Tin Cup with Lid
. Knife Sharpener
. WebTex Combat Survival Kit
Benefits of Using Webbing Gear
Apart from looking really cool some of the other benefits of using webbing gear as a BOB include:
- Better weight distrubution
- Very easy to throw on and go
- Still leaves your back free to carry a rucksack
- Very comfy if worn correctly
Although it can’t hold everything that I want to have with me if I have to Bug Out, a “BTAKITH” BOB is great to have sitting in the truck, take hunting/ hiking or sitting under your desk at work.
In the event of an emergency one of the most important things you need to obtain is water.
But what if the water supply is tainted and you can’t light a fire and boil it??
You break out the bleach.
Almost all laundry bleaches, whether Clorox or any other brand, have 5.5% Sodium Hypoclorite, which is a suitable purification chemical for water.
Bleach in a suitable container with an eyedropper dispenser makes a nice addition to any camping/survival kit.
Make sure you do not use powdered, scented or other non-pure bleaches.
Prior to the addition of bleach, remove all suspended material by filtration (through a cotton cloth or improvised sand filter for instance) or by simply allowing sediment to settle to the bottom.
Add 8 drops of bleach per gallon of water (or 2 drops per quart). If the water was filtered, then shake it up for even dispersal of the bleach, and wait 15 minutes.
If it has sediment at the bottom, don’t shake it up. Instead, allow the treated water to stand for 30 minutes.
Properly treated water should have a very slight chlorine odour.
If you can’t smell chlorine, repeat the dosage and allow the water to stand another 15 minutes.
For cloudy, green or really nasty water (i.e: swamp water), you can start with 16 drops of bleach per gallon of water (or 4 drops per quart).
As detailed above, smell the water.
If there’s a faint odour of chlorine, the water is drinkable. If not, then repeat the treatment.
Treating Larger Quantities of Water
- 1 teaspoon equals 60 U.S. drops. Therefore a teaspoon of bleach treats about 7.5 gallons of clear water or about 4 gallons of dirty water. The teaspoon measure is handy for treating 5 gallon buckets of water.
- 1 tablespoon equals 180 U.S. drops. Therefore a tablespoon of bleach treats about 20 gallons of clear water or about 10 gallons of dirty water.
- 1/4 cup equals 720 U.S. drops. Therefore a quarter cup of bleach treats about 90 gallons of clear water or 45 gallons of dirty water.
(a quarter cup measure is suitable for use in a 55 gallon drum of fairly dirty water).
How Does Bleach Work and What’s up with the Smell Test???
Bleach is an oxidant, and it will react with and kill pretty much any microscopic cellular life (including viruses) that it comes in contact with.
When it reacts, the bleach is actually consumed in the process.
Because killing microorganisms also consumes the bleach, the scent test tells you whether or not there’s anything left to kill. If there’s no chlorine odour, then all of the bleach was used up, meaning there could still be living organisms. If there is a chlorine odour, however faint, after 30 minutes, it tells you that all of the bacteria, viruses and other nasty stuff is dead, and the bleach has done its job with some to spare.
In the event of an emergency it is very important that you have all your important documents and identification with you.
Problem is though that when you are running for your life or rushing to get out of dodge you don’t really want to be lugging some big-ass file box or briefcase around with you.
So what can you do?????
Make a Survival Flash Drive!!
That’s right folks, to prepare for a survival scenario in which you will eventually have to re-enter regular society you can make it much easier on yourself and back-up your important documents ahead of time.
All you have to do is buy a cheap USB flash drive, scan all of your important documents and photos and store them on your flash drive in your Bug Out Bag all ready to roll.
That way when the shit goes down you have your “life on paper” with you.
For extra protection you can also keep your Flash Drive in an element proof Loksak bag thus protecting it from any risk of water damage.
Please Note: Modern Copy Machine and Scanners have an internal Hard Drive that keeps a digital copy of everything they scan.
All it takes is one malicious worker at the copy store to steal your identity so if possible find a private copy machine and scanner or better still buy your own.
There are a lot of cheap models available that will be suitable for your needs.
What to put on your Survival Flash Drive
. Driver’s License
. Gun Licence/Permit
. Bank Account Documents
. Birth Certificate
. Social Security Card
. Insurance Information
. Marriage Certificate
. All of the above for all Children
. Important Family Pictures
Make sure you keep your Survival Flash Drive in a safe place and regularly update the info on it if necessary.
It may also be a good idea to look at encrypting the data in case for some reason you lose your Flash Drive and it falls into the wrong hands.
One of the best FREE encryption programs available is TrueCrypt .
Just don’t forget your password!!!!!!!!!!